In 1990, Robert Mapplethorpe’s photographs led to a Cincinnati museum being charged with obscenity. His depictions of men in leather straps, collars, and harnesses, daring to showcase queer male nudity amidst the backdrop of the AIDS crisis, sparked a nationwide controversy.
Nearly 35 years later, at one of the most anticipated debuts of New York Fashion Week, Parisian fashion designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s ascent is fueled by bold, sensual, gender-fluid creations. He interprets Mapplethorpe’s captivating and once-taboo black-and-white imagery, seamlessly integrating white photos into alluring crystal mesh gowns and a black leather collection featuring BDSM-style masks and rear-split trousers. Long-sleeved shirts and tops with scarcely any side fastenings are crafted from sheer fabrics adorned with appliquéd outlines of Mapplethorpe’s calla lilies and muscular bodies, seemingly toying with the idea of photo transparency. (The collection is a collaboration approved by the late artist’s foundation, much like the one with Belgian designer Raf Simons in 2016.)
“Robert has always been a huge inspiration to me — in discovering his work, I discovered myself,” De Saint Sernin told CNN backstage.
The show, named after the renowned photographer’s most controversial collection of works, themed as “X,” comes at a time when skin has become exceedingly popular — or, more accurately, passe — with slim “nude” dresses and pantless silhouettes dominating the runway for over a year now, often achieving a sterile effect. De Saint Sernin’s case is quite different; since launching his eponymous label in 2017, he’s been designing for the likes of Kim Kardashian, Kim Petras, and Arca, among others, naturally evoking a heart-pounding sensuality from his brand.
Backstage with Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s New York debut.
“Sometimes I can be shy because my work is seen as sensual, expressive,” de Saint Sernin explained to CNN in a pre-show video call. “Now I’m like, no, I need to really own it.”
The sensual style of his brand is a genderless one, where anyone can freely wear adorned halter tops to showcase their shoulders or indulge in the lascivious pleasure of peekaboo cotton and sheer chiffon.
“I love showcasing how someone explores their femininity or masculinity… I think you can gain evolution and power through your gender and identity, and that’s a lifelong exploration,” de Saint Sernin said.
Message of Self-Love
Some of the designer’s most notable collaborations to date include outfitting Olivia Rodrigo in 150,000 sparkling Swarovski crystals for the MTV Video Music Awards, dressing Kim Kardashian in a deep-V leather harness “cleavage dress” for hosting duties (as seen on Season Four of “Keeping Up with the Kardashians”), and creating ethereal sparkling tops for Troye Sivan’s music video “Got Me Started.”
But his hottest moment came at last year’s Oscars party when Hunter Schafer wore a single white feathered bandeau top and long silk skirt, hot off the Ann Demeulemeester runway—de Saint Sernin led the French house for one season last year. De Saint Sernin’s message of self-love and self-expression found a fitting home in Schafer, whose career-launching role as trans teen Jules in “Euphoria” also embodies the same spirit.
Now, the New York runway marks a new territory for de Saint Sernin, who began his career at the legendary French luxury brand Balmain under the creative direction of Olivier Rousteing, showcasing his collections in Paris every season since 2018. “X,” as he often showcases his clothes in broad daylight, emphasizes “elegance, fantasy, eccentricity, and fluidity,” he says. (The previous season’s shoot took place in the sunny corridors of the city’s National Archives, with models donning summer versions of tight corset dresses and airy cuts, along with carefully placed leather thong pants).
But for his first formal foray into the American design arena, de Saint Sernin hopes to bring his guests into the hedonism of the New York dance floor, an act of “losing oneself in the city’s nights and not really knowing what awaits you.”
“(It’s) sexy, spicy, steamy, sweaty,” he adds.